Thursday, 6 June 2013

BEAUTIFUL BATIK


Batik is Indonesia! UNESCO designated Batik as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity on 2 October 2009. Batik is a cloth that is traditionally made using a manual wax-resist dyeing technique. Although the word's origin is Javanese, its etymology may be either from Javanese 'amba' (to write) and 'titik' (dot or point), or constructed from a hypothetical Proto-Austronesian root 'becik' meaning to tattoo from the use of a needle in the process. The word is first recorded in English in Encyclopedia Britannica of 1880, in which it's spelled battik. It's attested in Indonesian Archipelago during Dutch colonial period in various forms: mbatek, mbatik, batek and batik.

In Indonesia, traditionally, Batik used  for kain panjang or Sarong for Kebaya dress. It can also be worn by wrapping it around the body, or made into a hat known as Blangkon. Infants are carried in Batik slings decorated with symbols designed to bring the child luck. Certain Batik designs are reserved for brides and bridegrooms, as well as their families. The dead are shrouded in funerary Batik. Other designs are reserved for Sultan and his family or their attendants. A person's rank could be determined by the pattern of Batik he or she wore. For special ocassions, Batik was formerly decorated with gold leaf or dust. This cloth is known as Prada (a Javanese word for gold). Gold decorated cloth still made today, however, gold paint has replaced gold dust and leaf. 

Batik garments play a central role in certain rituals, such as ceremonial casting of royal Batik into a volcano. In Javanese Naloni Mitoni first pregnancy ceremony, the mother-to-be is wrapped in seven layers of Batik, wishing her good things. Batik is also prominent in Tedak Siten ceremony when a child touches the earth for the first time. Batik is also part of Labuhan ceremony when people gather at a beach to throw their problems away into the sea.

The wide diversity of patterns reflects a variety of influences, ranging from indigenous designs, Arabic calligraphy, European bouquets and Chinese phoenixes to Japanese cherry blossoms and Indian or Persian peacocks. Contemporary Batik, while owing much the past, is markedly different from the more traditional and formal styles. For example, the artist may use etching, discharge dyeing, stencils, different tools for waxing and dyeing, or wax recipes with different resist values. They may work with silk, cotton, wool, leather, paper or even wood and ceramics.


In Indonesia, Batik popularity has had its ebbs and flows. Historically, it was essential for ceremonial costumes and it was worn as part of a Kebaya dress which was commonly worn every day. Batik clothing has revived somewhat in the turn of 21st century, due to the effort of Indonesian designers to innovate Batik by incorporating new colors, fabrics and patterns. Batik is a fashion item for many young people of Indonesia such as shirt, dress or scarf for casual wear. Kebaya is regarded as a formal attire for women. It's also acceptable for men to wear Batik in the office or as a replacement for jacket and tie at certain receptions. After UNESCO recognition for Indonesian Batik as intangible world heritage on 2 October 2009, Indonesian administration has asked Indonesians to wear Batik on Friday and wearing Batik every Friday is encouraged in all government offices and private companies ever since. 


The existence and use of Batik was already recorded in 12th century and the textile has since become a strong source of identity of Indonesians and to lesser extent Singapore and Malaysia. Batik is featured in their national airlines uniform, the flight attendants of Singaporean and Malaysian national airlines wear Batik prints in their uniform. Although the uniforms are actually not real Batik because the production is not using the traditional way but using mass produced techniques. The female uniform of Garuda Indonesia flight attendants is more authentic modern interpretations of Kartini style Kebaya and Parang Gondosuli Batik motif which also incorporate Garuda's wing motif and small dots represent Jasmine. The Batik motif symbolizes Fragrant Ray of Life and endows the wearer with elegance.



There are so many types and variations of Batik in Indonesia. Javanese Kraton Batik (Javanese Court Batik) is the oldest Batik tradition known in Java which also known as Batik Pedalaman (inland Batik) in contrast with Batik Pesisiran (coastal Batik). This type of Batik has earthy color tones such as black, indigo (tarum), brown and dark yellow (sogan), sometimes against a white background. The motifs of traditional court Batik have symbolic meanings. Some designs are restricted: larger motifs can only be worn by royalty and certain motifs are not suitable for women or for specific ocassions (e.g. weddings). The palace court (Keratonan) in two cities in Central Java are known for preserving and fostering Batik traditions: Surakarta/Solo Batik and Yogyakarta Batik. Traditional Surakarta Court Batik is preserved and fostered by Susuhunan and Mangkunegaran courts. The main areas that produced Solo Batik are Laweyan and Kauman districts. Solo Batik typically has sogan as the background color. Pasar Klewer near Susuhunan Palace is a retail trade center. Traditional Yogya Batik is preserved and fostered by Yogyakarta Sultanate and Pakualaman Court. Usually Yogya Batik has white as the background color. Fine Batik is produced at Kampung Taman district and Beringharjo market near Malioboro street is well known as a retail Batik trade center in Yogyakarta.





Pesisir Batik (Costal Batik) is created and produced by several areas on the northern coast of Java and on Madura. As a consequence of maritime trading, Pesisir Batik tradition was more open to foreign influences in textile design, coloring and motif, in contrast to inland Batik which was relatively independent of outside influences. For example, Pesisir Batik utilizes vivid colors and Chinese motifs such as clouds, phoenix, dragon, qilin, lotus, peony and flower patterns. Pekalongan Batik is the most famous Pesisir Batik product which is produced in Pekalongan in Central Java. Compared to other Pesisir Batik production center, Batik production houses in this town is the most thriving. Pekalongan Batik was influenced by both Dutch-European and Chinese motifs, for example Buketan motifs was influenced by European flower bouquet. The other areas in Indonesia which famous for its Pesisir Batik are Cirebon, Lasem, Tuban and Madura. Cirebon Batik which also known as Trusmi Batik because of its primary production area. The most well known Cirebon Batik motif is Megamendung (rain cloud) that was used in the former Cirebon court which shows Chinese influence. Lasem Batik is characterized by a bright red color called Abang Getih Phitik (chicken blood red), Tuban Batik has its speciality Gedog Batik which was created from handmade Tenun (woven) fabrics, while Madura/Madurese Batik displays vibrant colors such as yellow, red and green with its unique motifs Pucuk Tombak (spear tips) and also various flora and fauna images.



In Indonesia, not only Yogyakarta and some cities in East Java that produced Batik but also in some other areas in Java, Bali and Sumatra which own its motifs and colors. In West Java or Banten there is Priangan Batik or Sundanese Batik with its variants and production centers such as Ciamis, Garut, Tasikmalaya, Kuningan, Baduy, Banten or other Javanese variant Java Hokokai Batik which is influenced by Japanese. In Bali, there is Balinese Batik which is influenced by Hindu culture for its motifs and colors as well as in Sumatra with its variants such as Batik from Jambi, Minangkabau, Aceh, Palembang and Riau, as well as variant from Kalimantan and Papua





Malaysia may use wax-dyeing technique for fabric but technique and pattern is originated from Indonesia. One more important thing is Indonesian Batik has its own history, philosophy and tradition for its motif which is Malaysian one lack of it. Batik is more than just drawing something on fabric!

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